However, those two bends took all the direct tension off of the flex during removal, so there was actually little danger of tearing it. There are two tabs on the side of the ribbon to help with that. A small metal tab that appears to limit the twist of the zoom barrel. Disassembly Nikon lens AF-S DX 18-55mm 3.5-5.6GII - YouTube This can be done with a small flat screwdriver, but be careful, as the connector is mounted on another piece of flat flex, so it will feel a bit loose. As a guy who's owned probably every Nikon lens ever made, even for Nikon's 1940s-1960s rangefinder cameras, I'm astonished at how this one lens replaces every other lens I used to use, with the exception of ultra-ultra wides. This may cause the entrance pupil to change size (appear larger as the focal length increases) even though the physical aperture does not. The inner barrel is now empty, other than a few cams and the various flexes passing hither and yon. You can see one of the eccentric collars showing through one of the zoom slots and a fair number of screws and collars for the inner elements. So if you break off the filter ring or hood slots, this is the disassembly that has to be done to replace it. This is the main aperture and a combination electrical/mechanical device. Removing these screws let us slide the extending barrel off. I was just seeing visible dust on the lens and thinking to myself, gosh, wouldn’t that affect the images? The neatly laid out and solidly adhered flexes reflect the careful design. After the second one was removed, it became apparent there was some mysterious force pushing the element up. To the left of the buttons, the gray plate is an anti-reflective/antiglare plate that was under the actual display. I would simply caution people that taking engineering reports of how well a given motor does this or that may not be very well reflected in how a lens performs autofocus. The design is logical and clean; the difficulties in the tear-down were ours. This part forms the main inner frame. I don’t have enough knowledge to comment other than the vague general understanding that EM is probably the fastest and stepper perhaps more accurate. Pictures are helpful for reassembly, as the design is starting to get a bit ‘busy’. Finally, the Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S Lens Teardown. The AutoFocus comes out as a single piece, with the associated controller, piezoelectric motor and gear assembly. Thanks a lot! With all of that stuff disconnected, the next step is obviously to remove the inner (white) electronics barrel. The engineering itself is incredible in most ways. This is attached to the rear housing by one screw, and there should be a flat flex cable holding on as well. That revealed the spanner slots in the front element, so it just unscrews from its seating. Required fields are marked *, Adventures in Programming and Electronics. At this point the CPU is removed, but the AF controller is still attached to the AF motor. Here’s a good shot of the adjustable collar for the mechanical aperture function (top center). Plus the other side of that lense element is dirty and dusty. Since its very first camera lens in 1933, Nikon has been tirelessly dedicated to crafting precision optics of uncompromising clarity, quality and reliability. We’ll look fondly back on this step, because ‘slides right off’ isn’t going to happen much more. The Nikon 35-105mm f/3.5-4.5D AF push-pull zoom is a great FX lens that works perfectly on all FX digital and 35mm Nikons.. LensRentals has published a teardown of the Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS II lens, complete with many photos and details of its inner workings. It has the zoom position sensor strip and the vibration sensors attatched to it. Once the rear mount ring screws are removed, the rear housing is no longer fastened to the main part of the lense. Like the Canon RF lens, the Nikon uses pairs of rollers, two in each slot. The taping of every possible point that Loctite or anything else could get in the lens does, too. Oh, and speaking of those white cotton glove videos? While we were looking around, though, we did see that there was a nice adjustable eccentric collar under the display ring. It’s just unfriendly to the warranter (usually the manufacturer) rather than to the owner of the lens. We clean them pretty meticulously during the re-assembly. We’re used to Nikon lenses having secondary circuit boards deeper in the lens and thought that was why. Nikon Resurrection: Repairing a Broken Lens | Hackaday. Dude, you’re breaking my heart. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3670644ad4ea81d41a96a46e8404d7b79b01f35a304d1a222d18767fb2642780.png. My comment was more in jest than an actual suggestion. This is the point in the teardown when stuff just starts coming out of the device left and right. The camera is close to perfect and I wanted to challenge myself so I whipped-out my Nikon FE2 along with this lens and shot these models. The logical next step is to remove the second group, which is not an adjustable element. Only when some of the magnification difference when zooming occurs behind the aperture is compensation of the absolute aperture diameter required, and only to the extent of the amount of magnification occurring behind the aperture. One of those flexes (the one sticking up on the left) runs down to the display unit in this barrel. Today’s specimen is a an AF-S 18-55mm 1:3.5-5.6 VR lens. Nikon 24-70mm f/2.8 Z Lens Teardown Reveals Incredible Engineering and Brand New Design. When these screws are removed, there are small cylinders that will pull out. Conclusion from LensRentals:. Sorry for my grumpy fit. Our brand new Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera arrived at the office this week, and we immediately got down to business. Very common, the camera is dropped (use the neck strap people! So thanks. Why springs, you ask? You could theoretically reassemble in a clean room and they’d be nearly dust free. This is not marketing department weather resistance. That’s why you see us putting little marks on them during disassembly.). In addition to the Nikon Z7 teardown by Kolarivision, LensRentals also published their teardown of Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera. I don’t know. But even I admit they have a point when a brand-new lens gets a huge spec inside. The next step is to unhook the flexes and sensors at this level. The small arm protrudes out the back of the lense while the long arm extends into the lens and opens/closes the aperture. Rule 63 of taking apart lenses is ‘thou shalt not tug a flex’; because tearing a flex is bad. Published January 15, 2020 . I left it for you to do. Jan 15, 2020. This exposes a couple tabs, which when pulled outward, allow the front lens assembly to be rotated clockwise off of the inner lens barrel. Nikon 28-300mm VR. There’s a cam that inserts into the zoom barrel, changing the size of this secondary aperture as you zoom. Very nicely done. Just so you know, my original title was “Lens Disassembly is a Complicated Profession. Nope, I’m obligated to only point out 1 error / post. The ring fits into a grove on the inside of the mount ring and the spring also anchors to the mount ring, providing a return mechanism. We immediately saw the reason for this; the rear baffle has an inner lip that sits tight against the rear barrel. The Nikon does this mechanically. We used every type of flat instrument we had to free the flex up, from spunger to bamboo sliver, but the tug remained the same. With these guides out, ensure that the metal guides and attached flat flex cables are free, because we will have to rotate the in between barrel. Even the insides of the pressed in brass screw slots are taped. FX lenses will fit both types of … Turning the lens a bit, you can see the zoom position sensor (Nikon has finally moved on from metal brushes) and one of the zoom ring keys (small slotted screw with white nylon collar) that attach the zoom ring to the cam barrel. The f/number is the relative aperture: the focal length divided by the size of the entrance pupil. A good #00 or #000 phillips driver is recommended. They went even further, building in nice channels for the flexes and thoroughly taping each flex in its proper place. 2 sept. 2013 - The website ifixit.com published their detailed instructions and pictures on how to teardown a Nikon D600 camera. This is the rearmost part that interfaces mechanically with the camera. That yellow tape everywhere prevents any Loctite around the screws from getting down into the optical parts of the lens. The mount ring is off the lens, with too glaring issues. While I really wanted to take a look at the vibration reduction mechanism which appears to be in the remaining assembly, I don’t seem any way to effectively continue a non-destructive tear down. The helical barrel should slide off the inner lens. Four years ago, Sony fired the first shot of this battle with the A7 and continued to release one iteration after another, each improving on the last, and did so completely unanswered by the competition until August 23rd of this year when Nikon announced the Z7 and the Z6. Note, I’m going to be making up names for these parts, as I don’t have an official reference. For the purpose of repairing the lens, I may be able to clean the glue residue off and with some kapton tape and delicate soldering, maybe repair the flat flex. Avoiding the adjustable collar was high on our list of goals, and there seemed to be a set of 6 screws and collars that would let us take something out of the front. A metal piece in the back of the connector can be slid out to separate the cable from the connectors. When I do take real pictures I like using something different: a Medium format, or Pentax K1, or a Sony RX1R. By Roger Cicala. The Not Very Long Awaited Teardown of the Canon RF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS . (Note: like the rest of this disassembly, we were wrong about this being a secondary aperture, as you’ll see later.). The lens control barrel isn’t attached mechanically, so these two barrels can be separated. I’m Roger and I am the founder of Lensrentals.com. And shallower wells in the rear group. So basically, you have to remove most of the front barrel hardware to take off the focus ring and rear barrel. This should prevent any barrel sag in the extended position. Nikon D5100 teardown. Many of you know my attention span is limited, so I suggested we inject alcohol into that area to loosen the adhesive and then pull the ring off, or let her rip, whichever happened. In addition to the Nikon Z7 teardown by Kolarivision, LensRentals also published their teardown of Nikon Z7 full frame mirrorless camera. If you notice what Aaron is holding in his right hand below, it’s one piece. View and Download Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 24-120mm f/4G ED VR user manual online. The posts removed quickly. We discussed the various reasons this would be so and concluded, “make Roger and Aaron look foolish during a tear down” was the most logical. See your world through renowned Nikkor DSLR lenses. The zoom group came right out, complete with some compression springs and the untouched adjustment collars. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. The zoom keys are heavy-duty, as you’d expect. A clean room. This one I got a deal on, as it was listed as “attempted to fix myself, but couldn’t do it.” Well, after receiving it, I decided this was a good one to tear completely apart, you know, for science. This is why we don’t do videos of teardowns; they’d be incredibly dull. If all of the change in magnification when a lens is zoomed occurs in front of the physical diaphragm, no change in absolute aperture diameter is required. Nikon has clearly modernized and spent time and effort in making a clean, well-engineered layout for the electronics. The flat flex connector for the main connector is a simple push/pull type without a lock, so you can just slide it out. Then a puller is used to remove each collar. The zoom ring assembly also contains the focus position sensor and the sliding ring used to connect the autofocus motor to the focus ring. OK, let’s take a moment for me to give some props. It was about now we realized that the tape was placed inside of every screw hole in the lens, and its reason became apparent. There is a set of three springs keeping separation force between the rear element and the main focusing element. Without a better option, I’ll proceed by attempting to remove the AF motor, and its associated gears. There you go, I foreshadowed the hell out of that, didn’t I? As we’ll discuss in a bit, this tape has a really practical purpose. Then there are designs where the physical aperture does, in fact, change size and so does the entrance pupil. Three screws hold it to the lens, and two more hold the connector in place. It has a very nice touch; the zero position is marked on it. The front view showed the paired stepper motors that move the focusing group, and the two flexes that power them. As far as I know, these are some type of shim devices to manage how far the mount ring sticks out. Even after removing the screws, it took a little force to pull it off, almost a suction-like effect. This part forms the outside zoom ring on the lens and contains an inner ring that connects the autofocus motor the focus ring. DL Cade. Spoiler alert: we don’t find much else to complain about in this lens. I get beat with ‘dust in the lens’ all day, every day. Remove that first to avoid damaging the wiper arms. You can’t see it from the image, but the post is eccentric, it would be adjusted during assembly to fine-tune the aperture size accurately. This part manages the mechanical interface to the camera body for control of the lens aperture. A look underneath the display ring shows you the button on the ring, just a rubber stopper that pushes the real button underneath, which allows more complete weather sealing. Despite all this, the bottom line is 45 minutes later, we still hadn’t gotten the display barrel off and couldn’t see where the flex was stuck. But it had been a long day nonetheless. The highest attention to detail is paid to every aspect of every lens that bears the name Nikkor. Lens Format. Removing four more screws and one flex lets us remove the rear outer barrel. The lens control ring is simply an optical sensor ring. We’ll have to remove these to allow the inner assembly to come free. Roger and Aaron at Lensrentals are back again with another lens teardown; this time, the Nikkor AF-S 120–300mm F2.8 FL ED SR VR lens.. There is already some bad news about the front barrel, but to decide how bad we need to take the front element out. The bayonet is held in place by the usual four screws. It’s like poking an open wound . This barrel fits between the inner barrel and the lens assembly and helps translate the rotation of the zoom ring into linear motion of the inner lens. You know shit’s getting real when Aaron puts on gloves. We assumed that things would be very different inside from previous Nikon lenses. As you can see in the images below, as you move the zoom back from 70mm, the secondary aperture closes. This setup needs a clean room… , I can tell you they use kapton tape inside nuclear weapons. Another nice touch is Nikon has put line-up markings throughout the lens so that during reassembly, you know precisely how round pieces are supposed to line up. Here is their conclusion: Nikon D600 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair) The battery can be easily replaced by opening the compartment with your thumbnail. Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S lens teardown by LensRentals By [NR] admin | Published: January 15, 2020 LensRentals posted their Nikon Z 24-70mm f/2.8 S lens teardown details. Once that’s done, we went back around to the front. This device shorts traces on the zoom position sensor so the CPU can report the current focal length to the camera. Lets start with the parts that came in the box, since these are already off the lense. On Nikon lenses, because we can’t buy parts, tearing a flex is very bad. There are three spots on the front of the assembly where it will have to align to slide the inner parts out. But we didn’t see what more information we’d obtain, and this disassembly had already been one of the longest ever. (We couldn’t see exactly what was going to come out at this point, but we were comfortable something would. This might be to keep the bayonet centered, for a dust seal, to provide a little extra strength, or just because it looks cool. So long, in fact, that Aaron left things out to put back together tomorrow. Today, we did the same with the Z7’s standard resolution counterpart, the Nikon Z6. Thankfully, the whole thing comes off as one piece, no gears spilling all over the place, which was a nice surprise. Let's see what it's got. At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.”. Each of three long screws is removed. This can be a bit delicate for the CPU board. At the end of the article, Roger Cicala said the Nikon Z7 “is a damn well-built camera, the best built mirrorless full-frame camera we’ve taken apart.” ), But I digress. This assembly is basically two parts with three compression springs pulling the aperture assembly (in the front) towards the zoom element (in the rear). For info on properly removing these pieces, see my last post where I repaired a similar lens. This could be the only lens you every need, and for $75 used you can't go wrong, although you have a huge choice of new and used FX lenses for Nikon SLRs at every price.. For Nikon FX DSLRs. Next, looking back at the other side of the lens, we’ll remove the two metal guides that are attached at the back of the lens and follow the inner lense down inside. That was not well thought out; those are common repairs, and they’re going to be pricey on this lens. Underneath the ring is the ESD pads that we got a peak of earlier. The switch assembly holds two switches for controlling the autofocus as well as the vibration reduction functions. Look at this engineering right here: neat flexes running directly where they’re heading placed in recessed channels in the barrel and thoroughly taped in place. 24.3 megapixel FX full-frame CMOS sensor. It will not be at all cheap. This seems like a good next step. Nobody wears those in real life either. Tape is probably an inadequate description; that’s a nice piece of 0.5mm heavy-duty plastic. Nikon developed an entirely new system of lenses and the Nikon 1-mount lens mount for the Nikon 1 series. While no reason is needed to take apart another lens to see what goodies lurk within, Roger specifically notes he chose this lens because he wanted to see if the new modern design of Nikon’s Z-mount lenses is being carried over to newer F-mount lenses as well. After which, the second group slides out of the barrel. It’s a really minor thing, and yeah, we can super glue it back down, but this is too frequent. He’s never seen a clean room either. Previous Story Irix announces 45mm f/1.4 manual focus lens for Fujifilm GFX system Back To News canon canon rf 100-500mm lens lensrentals news photography teardown I’ll have to admit I was stuck for a bit at this point. As you can tell from the screws over the motors and on the backplate, this unit can be further disassembled. Note the rear element poking out in the image below, and the distance the rear element cam screw has traveled compared to the image above. The next step is undoing all the flexes and removing the PCB. Your email address will not be published. It is not a matter of lens designers “cheating” users out of extra aperture or entrance pupil size, it’s just different ways of designing the lenses. The Nikon F-mount is a type of interchangeable lens mount developed by Nikon for its 35mm format single-lens reflex cameras.The F-mount was first introduced on the Nikon F camera in 1958, and features a three-lug bayonet mount with a 44 mm throat and a flange to focal plane distance of 46.5 mm. The rear view of the assembly shows just the backplate and the four screws holding it together. ), the lens hits the ground and the plastic mount ring on the lens gives way to the metal ring on the camera. This includes the aperture assembly we’d seen earlier. After both of these are removed, getting the front housing off is still a bit of a challenge. Going in from the back, we start by removing the usual three tiny screws that hold the rear baffle in place. But they do look all professional, don’t they? But after seeing it (I don’t remember anyone else that has it), it just seems like an all-around good idea. You can see the force, at least one of them, inside the barrel in the image below. There’s the usual rubber weather sealing ring under the bayonet. Now that it is removed, we can see it’s not a secondary aperture with the electronic aperture behind, as we thought earlier. Two screws hold that on, but before you remove that, there is also a silver tab holding some wiper arms, which is part of the zoom position sensor. This contains all of the optical elements other than the front, the focusing motors, aperture assembly, and of course, the cams and barrels for the zoom elements. With the hardware out, the zoom ring slides right off. For consumer camera lenses, a clean room is really not very necessary, and it’s easy to blow $10k/mo maintaining one properly. And then gets set in a safe place. Step 1 Nikon D600 Teardown . I mean, it got in there somehow, and somehow wasn’t through the back.). Props again, though, because being unable to see the seems is an indication of how precisely even these decorative parts are being made. This is a self-contained unit. More specifically, to record all the internal parts, such to examine the used part market on these items, as well as to increase my understanding such that I can perform more complex repairs in the future (my first couple attempts were easy). The tripod mount comes off after removing four Phillips #00 screws. Here it was lunch break, and we weren’t even halfway done with disassembly. Now we’ll move on to the next episode of “Roger and Aaron make bad choices.” We still have a couple of helicoid barrels, focusing and zoom lens groups, at least one adjustable group, the aperture, and the focusing motors in a fairly compact piece that needs to be disassembled. The flex goes to the A/M switch. You don’t care, I know, but for people working on the lens ‘zero mark at 12 degrees forward’ is a lot more accurate than ‘the fatty part is towards the front a bit’. First, remove all the connectors. Finally, you’ll notice there’s a lot of yellow tape. Even though loose, it was firmly trapped by an inner barrel. In my work I try to describe the function of the spring: tension vs compression. ARRI put out a PR video not long ago of the clean room they do lens repair in, and the technicians are not wearing covers for their beards. Because on April 10th I bought a Nikon D3100, not knowing about the new D5100. Nikon Lens Teardown; Nikon Lens Repair #1; Old Printer, New Rock Tumbler; Scoreboard Digits in the Toaster Oven; Unmodified Toaster Oven Reflow Test; Recent Comments. Picking up where the original owner left off, after remove the rear mount ring and associated parts (and pretending the connector was still attached), the next part to remove is the AutoFocus and Vibration Reduction switch assembly. We’re like the Harlem Globetrotters of lens disassembly. Entirely our fault, now that we know the right way in it could be done in a couple of hours, tops. Cotton = massive source of fibers. Next I’ll remove the rear most lense element. It would be a shame if, having gotten what I wanted, it ended up biting me in the ax, wouldn’t it? Bad. We were concerned that streak was about to end, but it was getting close to lunchtime, and we were hungry. The triangle just above the screw is another lineup marker. Aaron, BTW, has the highest factory training certification you can get from various (including German) lensmakers. As I noted in my last post, I’ve recently bought a Nikon DSLR camera, which has sparked my interest in the interchangeable lenses. Tweet. Once removed, there were also the anchors they were screwed into sitting into a channel in the inner lense assembly. If the connector was still attached via its screws to the mount ring, they may have lifted the lens by the rear housing and, in a mear moment, the lens fell apart and the weight of the lense broke the wire and the flat flex. Or, with other designs, the entrance pupil remains constant but as the focal length changes the f/number calculation changes. As seems to be the norm for this lens, we spent some time in quiet contemplation. But you know what I’ve never seen? Now you should be able to see four screws around the inside that seem to be holding the front housing in place. The "new" lens sports only two real changes, neither of them useful: you get some trim that is nostalgic (but not a totally nostalgic aperture ring ;~), and the focus ring has been adjusted to … The springs sit about 1/3 of their length in fairly deep wells in the back of the focusing element. The threads in these cylinders are deep and the screws sit recessed, so we can’t attach the these parts to the back of the screw sheet. And here, as happens so many times, we ran into the ‘be careful what you wish for; you might get it’ conundrum. LensRentals‘ Roger … With the PCB off, we can see there are shims under the rear group (they’re the thin brass line). 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